DISCLAIMER--
The information provided here is not complete and is only meant for
reference and a place to start. It is meant as a guide and not the exact or only
way to care for your snake. It is YOUR responsibility to do as much research
as possible to provide your new pet with the proper care.
The information provided here is not complete and is only meant for
reference and a place to start. It is meant as a guide and not the exact or only
way to care for your snake. It is YOUR responsibility to do as much research
as possible to provide your new pet with the proper care.
Basic Requirements for Corn, King or Milk snakes
1. Appropriate sized tank with screen top lid.
I suggest sliding screen lids with the pin locks, or use lid clamps if you have a lid that just sits on top of the tank.
Snakes are amazing at getting out of cages, even if they seem secure. A 10 gallon will work for a hatchling. A 20
gallon Long tank is the smallest you want to have for an adult snake. Do not use Tape of any kind around, or in
your snake cage. Be aware of any holes on your lid and cage. Even holes that are designed in the lid (ex: for heat
cables), are routes for your snake to escape.
2. Heat source.
Some people heat the room that the snake is in, but that does not give the snake the heat gradient that it needs.
Snakes need a warm end and a cool end of the tank. They are cold blooded and this gradient allows them to
regulate their temperature. An under the tank heater (UTH) works well on one end of the tank. You can also use a
heat lamp and bulb. You may want a night time and day time bulb. You can also use a black or red bulb if you only
have one fixture. Snakes can not see these colors, so it will not disrupt their sleep cycles.
3. Bedding or substrate.
I personally use aspen bedding. Some other acceptable bedding may include reptile carpet, paper towels, news
paper (no color ads), Sani-Chips brand. Never use pine, cedar or anything with toxic aromas or oils. Bark should
be avoided as it can be irritating to the snake, and may even cause Upper Respiratory Infections (URI).
4. Shelters, hides, decorations.
You will want at least two hides, so you can put one on the cool end of the tank and one at the warm end. I
recommend one in the middle as well. It is recommended to be practical in your choice of hides. You want to be
able to get the snake out when needed, so not designed where the snake can get in areas that you can not
access. You also want the cage to look nice, but be practical to clean. Some overly decorative cage
decorations/hides are difficult to clean.
5. Water dish.
Some water dishes can also serve as hides. Some dog/cat dishes allow the snake to hide under them because
they have hollow spaces underneath. If you use these type of dishes, make sure they have large, wide bases, so
the snake can not tip it over. The water dish must be large enough for the snake to soak its whole body.
6. Thermometer, hygrometer
The more accurate, the better. Get a gauge that goes by more than every 10 degrees. You want to monitor the
temperature as well as the humidity in the cage. Too low of a humidity and your snake could have trouble
shedding. It is best if you monitor both ends of a cage. Place the thermometer just above the substrate, where
your snake will spend most of its time.
7. A separate container to feed the snake in.
This container can be a Tupper-ware container with a lid and air holes, a paper bag, a deli-cup with lid and air
holes or a card board box. Another cage is the safest route. This cage does not have to be very large, as the
snake will only be in it long enough to eat.
8. A book that is specific on the care of the animal that you have/want. I recommend reading it Prior to purchasing
the animal you are interested in.
I suggest sliding screen lids with the pin locks, or use lid clamps if you have a lid that just sits on top of the tank.
Snakes are amazing at getting out of cages, even if they seem secure. A 10 gallon will work for a hatchling. A 20
gallon Long tank is the smallest you want to have for an adult snake. Do not use Tape of any kind around, or in
your snake cage. Be aware of any holes on your lid and cage. Even holes that are designed in the lid (ex: for heat
cables), are routes for your snake to escape.
2. Heat source.
Some people heat the room that the snake is in, but that does not give the snake the heat gradient that it needs.
Snakes need a warm end and a cool end of the tank. They are cold blooded and this gradient allows them to
regulate their temperature. An under the tank heater (UTH) works well on one end of the tank. You can also use a
heat lamp and bulb. You may want a night time and day time bulb. You can also use a black or red bulb if you only
have one fixture. Snakes can not see these colors, so it will not disrupt their sleep cycles.
3. Bedding or substrate.
I personally use aspen bedding. Some other acceptable bedding may include reptile carpet, paper towels, news
paper (no color ads), Sani-Chips brand. Never use pine, cedar or anything with toxic aromas or oils. Bark should
be avoided as it can be irritating to the snake, and may even cause Upper Respiratory Infections (URI).
4. Shelters, hides, decorations.
You will want at least two hides, so you can put one on the cool end of the tank and one at the warm end. I
recommend one in the middle as well. It is recommended to be practical in your choice of hides. You want to be
able to get the snake out when needed, so not designed where the snake can get in areas that you can not
access. You also want the cage to look nice, but be practical to clean. Some overly decorative cage
decorations/hides are difficult to clean.
5. Water dish.
Some water dishes can also serve as hides. Some dog/cat dishes allow the snake to hide under them because
they have hollow spaces underneath. If you use these type of dishes, make sure they have large, wide bases, so
the snake can not tip it over. The water dish must be large enough for the snake to soak its whole body.
6. Thermometer, hygrometer
The more accurate, the better. Get a gauge that goes by more than every 10 degrees. You want to monitor the
temperature as well as the humidity in the cage. Too low of a humidity and your snake could have trouble
shedding. It is best if you monitor both ends of a cage. Place the thermometer just above the substrate, where
your snake will spend most of its time.
7. A separate container to feed the snake in.
This container can be a Tupper-ware container with a lid and air holes, a paper bag, a deli-cup with lid and air
holes or a card board box. Another cage is the safest route. This cage does not have to be very large, as the
snake will only be in it long enough to eat.
8. A book that is specific on the care of the animal that you have/want. I recommend reading it Prior to purchasing
the animal you are interested in.
CORN SNAKE CARE
There are many care sheets out there that
are very good. I recommend to anyone who
is getting a new pet, to research it as much
as possible. If you are getting a new corn
snake, I recommend getting Kathy Love's
book called "Corn Snakes The
Comprehensive Owner's Guide". Below are
links to care sheets for corn snakes.
are very good. I recommend to anyone who
is getting a new pet, to research it as much
as possible. If you are getting a new corn
snake, I recommend getting Kathy Love's
book called "Corn Snakes The
Comprehensive Owner's Guide". Below are
links to care sheets for corn snakes.
KING SNAKE CARE
I recommend anyone that is getting a new
snake do all the research they can. Below
are links to some care sheets. I also
recommend getting a book on King Snake
care.
snake do all the research they can. Below
are links to some care sheets. I also
recommend getting a book on King Snake
care.
MILK SNAKE CARE
SNAKE CARE
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BEARDED DRAGON CARE
LIZARD CARE
BALL PYTHON CARE (ROYAL PYTHON)