DISCLAIMER--
The information provided here is not complete and is
only meant for reference and a place to start. It is meant
as a guide and not the exact or only way to care for your
snake. It is YOUR responsibility to do as much research
as possible to provide your new pet with the proper care.
The information provided here is not complete and is
only meant for reference and a place to start. It is meant
as a guide and not the exact or only way to care for your
snake. It is YOUR responsibility to do as much research
as possible to provide your new pet with the proper care.
Basic Requirements for Corn, King or Milk snakes
1. Appropriate sized tank with screen top lid.
I suggest sliding screen lids with the pin locks, or use lid clamps if you have a lid
that just sits on top of the tank. Snakes are amazing at getting out of cages, even if
they seem secure. A 10 gallon will work for a hatchling. A 20 gallon Long tank is the
smallest you want to have for an adult snake.
2. Heat source.
Some people heat the room that the snake is in, but that does not give the snake
the heat gradient that it needs. Snakes need a warm end and a cool end of the
tank. They are cold blooded and this allows them to regulate their temperature. An
under the tank heater (UTH) works well on one end of the tank. You can also use a
heat lamp and bulb. You may want a night time and day time bulb.
3. Bedding or substrate.
I personally use aspen bedding. Some other acceptable bedding may include
reptile carpet, paper towels, news paper, Sani-Chips brand. Never use pine, cedar
or anything with toxic aromas or oils. Bark should be avoided as it can be irritating
to the snake.
4. Shelters, hides.
You will want at least two, so you can put one on the cool end of the tank and one at
the warm end. I recommend one in the middle as well.
5. Water dish.
Some water dishes can also be hides. Some dog dishes allow the snake to hide
under them because they have hollow spaces underneath. If you use these type of
dishes, make sure they have large, wide bases, so the snake can not knock it over.
The water dish must be large enough for the snake to soak its whole body.
6. Thermometer, hygrometer
The more accurate, the better. Get a gauge that goes by more than every 10
degrees. You want to monitor the temperature as well as the humidity in the cage.
Too low of a humidity and your snake could have trouble shedding.
7. A separate container to feed the snake in. This container can be a Tupper-ware
container with a lid and air holes, a paper bag, or deli-cup with lid and air holes or a
card board box.
8. A book that is specific on the care of the animal that you have/want.
I suggest sliding screen lids with the pin locks, or use lid clamps if you have a lid
that just sits on top of the tank. Snakes are amazing at getting out of cages, even if
they seem secure. A 10 gallon will work for a hatchling. A 20 gallon Long tank is the
smallest you want to have for an adult snake.
2. Heat source.
Some people heat the room that the snake is in, but that does not give the snake
the heat gradient that it needs. Snakes need a warm end and a cool end of the
tank. They are cold blooded and this allows them to regulate their temperature. An
under the tank heater (UTH) works well on one end of the tank. You can also use a
heat lamp and bulb. You may want a night time and day time bulb.
3. Bedding or substrate.
I personally use aspen bedding. Some other acceptable bedding may include
reptile carpet, paper towels, news paper, Sani-Chips brand. Never use pine, cedar
or anything with toxic aromas or oils. Bark should be avoided as it can be irritating
to the snake.
4. Shelters, hides.
You will want at least two, so you can put one on the cool end of the tank and one at
the warm end. I recommend one in the middle as well.
5. Water dish.
Some water dishes can also be hides. Some dog dishes allow the snake to hide
under them because they have hollow spaces underneath. If you use these type of
dishes, make sure they have large, wide bases, so the snake can not knock it over.
The water dish must be large enough for the snake to soak its whole body.
6. Thermometer, hygrometer
The more accurate, the better. Get a gauge that goes by more than every 10
degrees. You want to monitor the temperature as well as the humidity in the cage.
Too low of a humidity and your snake could have trouble shedding.
7. A separate container to feed the snake in. This container can be a Tupper-ware
container with a lid and air holes, a paper bag, or deli-cup with lid and air holes or a
card board box.
8. A book that is specific on the care of the animal that you have/want.
CORN SNAKE CARE
There are many care sheets out there that
are very good. I recommend to anyone who
is getting a new pet, to research it as much
as possible. If you are getting a new corn
snake, I recommend getting Kathy Love's
book called "Corn Snakes The
Comprehensive Owner's Guide". Below are
links to care sheets for corn snakes.
are very good. I recommend to anyone who
is getting a new pet, to research it as much
as possible. If you are getting a new corn
snake, I recommend getting Kathy Love's
book called "Corn Snakes The
Comprehensive Owner's Guide". Below are
links to care sheets for corn snakes.
KING SNAKE CARE
I recommend anyone that is getting a new
snake do all the research they can. Below
are links to some care sheets. I also
recommend getting a book on King Snake
care.
snake do all the research they can. Below
are links to some care sheets. I also
recommend getting a book on King Snake
care.
MILK SNAKE CARE
SNAKE CARE
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BEARDED DRAGON CARE
LIZARD CARE
BALL PYTHON CARE (ROYAL PYTHON)